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I tested supermarket olive oils as Filippo Berio hits £13 a BOTTLE – the winner was under half the price at just £6


IT’S a kitchen staple loved by chefs and nutritionists alike – and is even known as liquid gold.

But soaring costs mean olive oil is almost worth its weight in gold – with supermarket prices rising more than 50 per cent in the last year and the brand leader charging over £13 a bottle.

James tested out supermarket own-brand olive oils and rated them

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James tested out supermarket own-brand olive oils and rated themCredit: Damien McFadden
Filippo Berio now retails at over £13 a litre in some stores

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Filippo Berio now retails at over £13 a litre in some storesCredit: Alamy

The surge in price is driven by supply shortages in Spain due to dwindling harvests as a result of scorching summers.

But the hefty price tags are putting off UK consumers, with market leaders Filippo Berio reporting sales are down 15 per cent.

Savvy shoppers are now turning to the cheaper blends of refined olive and virgin oils, which can cost less than half the price of premium brands.

But how do they rate in terms of aroma, flavour and value?

Sun man James Liveris has put the supermarket own brands to the test, rating them out of five – with surprising results.

Waitrose Essential 1L, £7.50

Waitrose's olive oil would be fine for getting a pasta started

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Waitrose’s olive oil would be fine for getting a pasta startedCredit: Damien McFadden

First impressions are good, the liquid is light in colour with a blend of green and there is no sediment settling at the bottom of the bottle.

After popping open the cap, there is little scent, which makes me believe this has been heavily refined in a factory.

But the texture is silky smooth, almost buttery, with a woody taste.

Waitrose’s olive oil would be fine for a pasta sauce recipe but not much else.

Marks and Spencer 1L, £7.50

★★★★☆

Marks and Spencer have produced a great all-rounder

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Marks and Spencer have produced a great all-rounderCredit: Damien McFadden
You’ve been cooking your pasta all the wrong… an easy 1p hack means the water won’t flow over ever again

This is marketed as an everyday all-rounder, ideal for roasting and cooking – but I don’t think that does it justice.

This is so fragrant and tasty, I wouldn’t be surprised if Greek Gods bathed in something similar.

Light in texture and piquant in flavour, you could drizzle it over any meal for an added oomph.

But it is one of the pricier options so loses a point for value.

Aldi – Solesta 1L, £5.49

★★★★☆

Aldi's Solesta packs a punch and would be perfect for roast vegetables

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Aldi’s Solesta packs a punch and would be perfect for roast vegetablesCredit: Damien McFadden

Just because Aldi’s olive oil goes for less than half the price of the ‘premium brands’ it does not mean it lacks in flavour.

A bottle of Solesta certainly packs a punch and I would confidently douse my roast vegetables with this elixir.

It has a subtle aroma and remnants of olive groves can be tasted.

Consistency wise, it is pretty heavy duty, so I’d keep this handy in the pantry for Sunday roasts.

COOP 1L, £8.40

★★☆☆☆

Co-op's olive oil was marred by disgusting floating sediment

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Co-op’s olive oil was marred by disgusting floating sedimentCredit: Damien McFadden

It is quite hard to tell why this comes at a premium price.

With a going rate of £8.40, you’d hope it would tick all boxes – I found quite the opposite.

The body was marred by disgusting floating sediment, it had an unwelcome odour and a less than pleasant taste.

It must be consumed within 12 months but shoppers would be better off keeping this out of the basket when visiting the Co-op.

Lidl – Primadonna 1L, £5.99

★★★★★

Lidl's nice organic nutty taste and an affordable price makes it hard to beat

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Lidl’s nice organic nutty taste and an affordable price makes it hard to beatCredit: Damien McFadden

This is the only olive oil that is visibly bottled and marketed in Spain.

And lavishly ladled over my salad, it has the delicious scent of authenticity.

Lidl’s bottle also has decent shelf life – outdoing the others by three months.

With a nice organic nutty taste, an appealing aroma and an affordable price, this is my clear winner.

Sainsbury’s 1L, £7.80

★★☆☆☆

Sainsbury's olive oil had a pleasant natural taste

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Sainsbury’s olive oil had a pleasant natural tasteCredit: Damien McFadden

One of the more expensive bottles but I would only use Sainsbury’s olive oil for greasing a baking tray or frying onions.

It was quite gloopy and much more yellow than the others – you certainly wouldn’t put it out with bread.

However, there was a pleasant enough taste that makes up a little for the consistency.

Overall, it was pretty average and at £7.80, not great value.

Morrisons 1L, £7.15

★★★☆☆

Shoppers could do worse than Morrisons' cheaper option

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Shoppers could do worse than Morrisons’ cheaper optionCredit: Damien McFadden

Despite being the inferior model to Morrisons‘ “Best” selection, there is something inviting about this bottle.

With a light green coat and a soft fragrance, this olive oil is perfect for home cooking.

It is rich in taste but not overly fatty, making it suitable for both marinades and roasting.

Although a mid-range price, it’s not a bad buy.



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